Country Information

Vietnamese cooking is varied and usually superb, as the profusion of Vietnamese restaurants in New York, London and Berlin contest. It is a mixture of Vietnamese, Chinese and French traditions, with a plethora of regional variations. As in all countries of the region, rice or noodles usually provide the basis of a meal. Not surprisingly, fish is plentiful.

National specialities:
• Breakfast is often congee (rice porridge) or a meaty noodle soup locally known as pho.
• Nem (spring rolls: pork mixed with noodles, eggs and mushrooms wrapped in rice paper, fried and served hot).
• Banh chung (glutinous rice, pork and onions wrapped in large leaves and cooked for up to 48 hours, to be eaten cold at any time).
• nuoc mam (Vietnamese dishes are not complete without this fermented fish sauce).
• Bun cha, (grilled pork, cold rice noodles, deep fried rolls and a big bowl of salad leaves).

National drinks:
• Green tea is refreshing and available everywhere. Lotus tea is an important ritual and strong in caffeine.
• The French culinary legacy embraces rich, fresh, filter coffee, usually brewed on the table in front of the customer.
• Bia Hoi (local draught beer available at street stalls everywhere. It is not only cheap, but free of additives.)
• Rice wine is also a favourite throughout the country. It is generally extremely potent.

Tipping: Tipping is now quite customary, especially in tourist areas. Upscale restaurants and hotels may add a 5 to 10% service charge to the bill.

Vietnam definitely isn't Thailand when it comes to the nightlife, but Ho Chi Minh City has a vast range of bars, clubs, live music venues and restaurants from gloomy little establishments to some rather upmarket venues. Hanoi's nightlife is on the up, and there is an increasingly good selection of bars and restaurants, although the city can still seem a little quiet after 2200 when a government curfew comes into effect. It is rarely enforced, and some after-hours bars can be found on the sly. Elsewhere there are bars and restaurants but the choice is limited. The bia hois (pavement pubs) offer the best social experience and the friendly locals will often talk to visitors. Food and snacks such as boiled quail's eggs are also usually available.

Government restrictions mean that venues are unable to stay open very late and there are occasional police raids should a bar flout the unspecified regulations. Imported drinks are considerably more expensive than local ones, and alcohol sold in the more upmarket places is even more expensive again. There is never any entrance fee to bars, but nightclubs generally charge around US$5. The dress code is very relaxed with no restrictions on jeans or trainers. Gambling is illegal in Vietnam for the Vietnamese but is allowed by foreign passport holders.

Vietnam is a bargain hunter's paradise and the streets are awash with little shops selling all manner of items. Hanoi's Old Quarter is particularly excellent for visitors, with shops selling clothes, gold, embroidered tablecloths and handbags. Markets are always great places to enjoy the local flavour and buy souvenirs. Silk goods are particularly prominent, however the quality can differ vastly.

Ben Thanh market in Ho Chi Minh City and Dong Xuan market in Hanoi are worth a visit. Local specialities include lacquer painting, reed mats, embroidery, tailor-made ao dais (female national costume) and mother-of-pearl inlay on ornaments and furniture, not to mention the ubiquitous conical hat. Water puppets are also popular and great cheap souvenir.

The hill tribes of the Central Highlands and the north of the country now sell colourful woven bags and clothing, often from cooperatives of women workers. Good souvenirs are marble figurines and vases, ceramics from Bat Trang village, silk paintings and hand-painted greetings cards. VAT is included on most items sold, but at the moment there is no system for foreign visitors to be able to claim this back. Bargaining is expected in markets and many souvenir shops.

Shopping hours: Daily 0800-2100.